Veal (or turkey) Saltimbocca

This has probably become obvious by now, but I'd like to come out and say it: I love to cook. Even more than cooking for its own sake, I love to invite people over, cook for them, and make them happy just because they're eating something delicious. But there is nothing more frustrating than being trapped in the kitchen, watching over your dishes, while your guests mingle elsewhere in the house. You miss out on all the conversation (it's really hard to eavesdrop in French!), all the cocktails, and all the hors d'oeuvres you so lovingly prepared earlier in the day - hey, no fair!

That's where saltimboccas come in. These playful rolls are originally from Italy, but they've been adopted by many of the French restaurants here along the Mediterranean coast. What's great is that they take only a few minutes to prepare, and thus can be done last-minute -- no need to miss out on all the pre-dinner gossip. They are traditionally made with veal, but those with moral objections to poor baby cows being force-fed and held in inhumanely small pens can substitute turkey.

The typical accompaniment to saltimbocca is pasta; if you're doing this, make enough cream sauce to douse your pasta as well. I find it also works well with spinach - creamed, wilted, pureed, take your pick.

Veal or Turkey Saltimbocca

Serves 4

4 very thin veal or turkey cutlets

4 slices of prosciutto

4 slices of swiss or mozzarella cheese

5 sage leaves

3 tablespoons crème fraîche

1/2 lemon

salt, pepper, olive oil

toothpicks

1. In a large frying pan, briefly sautée cutlets in olive oil on one side only until they become golden. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Remove cutlets from frying pan. Place them raw-side-down on a cutting board. On top of the cooked side of each of the cutlets, place 1 slice prosciutto, 1 slice of cheese, and 1 sage leaf. Roll up the cutlets and hold them closed with toothpicks. (The first two steps can be performed ahead of time.)
3. Cut up the remaining sage leaf and place it in the frying pan with olive oil. Place the rolls into the frying pan and cook over medium-low heat until they are golden on all sides and the cheese is melted.
4. Remove rolls from pan and cover with foil to keep them warm. In the frying pan, add the lemon juice and the cream, stirring energetically . Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. Serve rolls topped with cream sauce, accompanied by the vegetable or pasta of your choice.

For a delicious, visually pleasing main dish, I think this one is about as rapid as you can get. I've heard complaints that crème fraîche is difficult to find in the US; while it should be available in specialty/gourmet food stores, I've heard there's a way to make your own with buttermilk and milk. I'll look that up and get back to you. In the meantime, bon appetit!

Red wine sauce

There is one thing I am sure of this holiday season: you must make this sauce. Its ingredient list seems complicated, but it's actually quite simple, and will transform your whipped-up-at-the-last-minute dinner into something gourmet.

Sébastien insists on red meat at least once a week, but as a cook, there's something inherently unsatisfying about serving a slab of meat you've essentially done nothing to. Throwing a steak in a frying pan and flipping it once is not my idea of talent. (Which is why, incidentally, I usually leave the boy to his own devices on red meat day.) But with this sauce, I've found my solution. You can serve it on white meat, on fish, even on potatoes for you vegetarians; but the ultimate pairing is definitely red meat.

Red Wine Sauce

Serves 4

4 shallots

1/2 bottle red wine

1 beef bouillon cube

1/2 cup water

2 tablespoons half and half (or heavy cream)

1 tablespoon corn starch (or flour, but corn starch is best)

olive oil

salt, pepper

1. Heat a spoonful of olive oil in a saucepan. Add shallots, salt and pepper to taste, and sautée until translucent and soft (about 5-7 minutes).
2. Add the red wine, the bouillon cube and the water. Cook over medium heat (very slow boil), stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced by half.
3. Stir the corn starch and the cream in a separate bowl, making sure there are no lumps.
4. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the cream mixture to the sauce. Cook for a few more minutes, stirring often, until the sauce reaches your desired consistency.
5. Serve immediately.

And voilà! No more boring meat. Bon appetit!