The wonderful world of gratins

Happy 2010! Wishing you all success and creativity this year, in the kitchen and in all walks of life.

Here in the south of France, winter temperatures rarely fall below freezing. But the relatively temperate climate of the region doesn't prevent the locals from craving rich, hearty dishes, usually involving some combination of cream, butter, and egg. So in these dark months, the provençaux abandon their typical diet of tomatoes and olive oil to borrow the sinfully delicious cuisine of the region directly to the north: the Alps. You are probably already familiar with some of the most typical Alpine fare - fondue, raclette, maybe even tartiflette. If these are conjuring up images of thick, melted cheese everywhere, you're on the right track.

But as far as I'm concerned, the real star to come from the Alps is the gratin. This is a versatile baked dish that is most well-known with potatoes, but could feature anything from cauliflower to seafood. In essence, your main ingredient is layered with a milk and cream mixture in an oven dish, topped with cheese or bread crumbs, then baked until golden.

I'll start you off with two gratin recipes, both featuring the classic potato. The first, my husband has told me each time I've made it, is "the best gratin ever." It is an authentic gratin dauphinois, the perfect accompaniment for any meat. The second (pictured above), slighly lighter, mixes potatoes with broccoli, and could serve as a main dish.

I should note that in potato-based recipes, it is important to choose the right potato variety. Here in France, where gratins are omnipresent, you'll find potatoes at the market specifically labeled "for gratins." Since I don't remember seeing those in the US, try any potato that's recommended for baking or for cooking in the oven.

Gratin dauphinois

(serves 6)

3 lbs. potatoes

1 clove garlic, finely minced

1 1/4 cups cream

1 quart milk

6 Tbsp butter

salt, pepper, nutmeg

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Peel, rince, and finely slice the potatoes (in that order! do not rince after slicing) into rounds.
3. In a pot, combine milk and garlic. Season generously with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Bring to a boil, then add the potatoes. Cook approximately 15 minutes.
4. Grease an oven-safe dish, then fill with potatoes. Cover with cream.
5. Place small scrapings of butter on the top of the gratin. Bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour.

Potato-Broccoli Gratin

(Serves 6)

2 lbs. potatoes

1 head of broccoli

1 clove garlic

1 cup milk

3/4 cup heavy cream or crème fraîche

1 egg

3 1/2 oz. shredded cheese

salt, pepper, nutmeg

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Cut the broccoli into small florets and rince. Place in a large pot of boiling water and cook for five minutes.
3. Drain broccoli. Peel and rince potatoes, then cut them into fine, round slices.
4. Cut the clove of garlic in half. Vigorously rub the inside of an oven-safe dish with the inside of the garlic clove.
5. Layer potatoes and broccoli in the dish, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
6. When all the potatoes and broccoli have been used, combine egg, cream and milk in a mixing bowl. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; pour the liquid over your gratin.
7. Cover with shredded cheese (I use emmental; parmesan would also be delicious). Bake for 1 hour, or until the crust is golden.

Bon appetit!