Le Temps des Cerises 1: Cherry Clafoutis

Once upon a time (or, OK, just last August), I posted a recipe for wild berry clafoutis. As I described in that first post, clafoutis is a dense, crustless cake that comes from the Limousin region of France. I've since learned that clafoutis is actually just crèpe batter, poured in a thick layer over fruits and baked instead of cooked in a crèpe pan.

Whatever its composition, clafoutis is delicious. It's sweet without being cloying, rich without being overpowering, and it's just as popular for breakfast as it is for dessert here. Although you can make it with any number of fruits, the classic clafoutis is, and will always be, cherry.

Which brings me to my French lesson of the day. Here in France, cherry season is celebrated as a sure sign of summer's arrival, to the point where that brief moment when the cherry trees put forth their fruit even bears its own name: le temps des cerises, literally "the time of cherries." It's taken on more euphemistic meanings over the years - it can be used to refer to a young girl in the flower of youth, and is even the name of France's most popular denim brand - but it always conjures up images of early summer sunshine and cherry branches heavy with fruit. The season is short, so it is essential to make the most of this ephemeral treat while it's available. For this reason, I'll be posting cherry recipes as often as I can in the next few days, and I hope you can take advantage before the season is over wherever you are.

I'll start you off with this classic before moving on to somewhat more adventurous territory in the days to come :)

Cherry Clafoutis

Serves 6-8

1 1/2 pounds cherries, washed but NOT destoned

2 heaping Tbsp. flour
1 heaping Tbsp. almond meal / powder
1 pinch salt

3 eggs

1/2 cup sugar

2 cups milk

optional: 1 tsp. vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Butter a 8- or 9-inch round pan (attention: NOT a pie pan; you'll need something with higher, vertical sides like the one pictured above), then scatter the cherries in the bottom of the pan. In a separate bowl, stir together the flour, almond meal, salt, and sugar; then whisk in the eggs, the milk, and if you're using it, vanilla. When the batter is smooth, pour it over the cherries and place in the oven for 30 to 45 minutes. The cake has finished baking when the top is golden brown but still trembles slightly in the center. Place on a rack to cool; serve warm or cold, sprinkled with powdered sugar or with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

In place of or in addition to the vanilla extract, you could also add a bit of bitter almond extract, which I find works well with the flavor of the cherries. Clafoutis is traditionally made with whole cherries, with the stones still in; this gives it a richer and more authentic taste. If you're serving small children or impatient adults, though, you could always destone the cherries beforehand. Bon appetit!